Crazy Wayne Rocks U suck
Last Login:
May 2, 2012
Mopeds:
- 2004 Tomos Cross 50 Senior
- 1980 Peugeot TSM U3
Age:
-1
City:
Occupie
Country:
Yemen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXbh9f1WUFY&feature=player_embedded
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Carburetor
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Needle
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Upjet
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Vacuum_leak
Bing info
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2891329,2893812
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2116363
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2117054,2120556#msg-2120556
SHA info
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2891329,2895993#msg-2895993
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,1826473,1826473#msg-1826473
Mikuni info
http://www.germanscooterforum.de/Lambretta_LI_GP_SX_TV_f2/Einstellungstipps_Mikuni_TM_24_28_t130952.html
Bearings
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2106919,2117413
Polini 64cc
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2111342,page=1
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2032707,page=1
Reeds.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2745966
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2921651
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2931408
Squash band's
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/7/207556/207556/
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2872505
http://www.mopedriders.org/article_cat.php?fldAuto=2
V1 stock clutch mods.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2982365
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,3007427,3007427,page=1#msg-3007427
Piston rings.
Old SAE paper
http://www.vintagesleds.com/library/manuals/misc/jennings/l-ring_effect.pdf
I like moly-faced ductile iron and steel rings, moly works very good because it is porous, holds oil so it's more scuff resistant.
Piston rings alone can account for up to 40 percent of an engine's friction.
Thinner rings exert less tension against the cylinders = more HP.
Some have a special coating on the sides to keep them from sticking as they bounce up and down in the piston lands.
Good pistons today are made with more silica "hypereutectic" alloy pistons have less thermal expansion close to 15 percent less than standard F-132 alloy pistons.
SO hypereutectic pistons can be installed with a tighter fit by .0005" to .0015" depending on the application.
Hypereutectic moly coated pistons with gs on the side can handle even less clearance.
High temperature fatigue strength of hypereutectic alloys is better than either cast or forged alloys.
By drilling tiny gas ports in the ring lands, less side clearance is needed and ring sealing is improved. There is also less ring flutter at high rpm.
Ring gaps top or single ring gap .008" to .012" and make the lower ring's gap bigger by .002" to .004" so pressure doesn't buildup between the rings.
This will help the top ring to hold its seal and fluter less at high rpm.
You will have better hi RPM compression, piston cooling and less ring blow-by.
Nikasil which is a very hard surface finish. Pistons normally run with chrome plated rings (also a hard surface) and because of this you need to blast WOT to run the two parts "hard" to bed in to each other. Normal running in will not allow the parts to bed in to each other and will cause piston ring blowby. This will allow excess pressure into the cylinder wall gap causing oil to be pushed down an out.
If a Nikasil engine seizes, usually the piston melts onto the niksil surface and the bore can be reclaimed by removing the deposited piston metal off the bore.
Lot's of new ring coating's are available Japan likes gas nitrided, Europeans like a mix of ring facings: moly, chrome and nitride.
New diesels run composite coatings that combine ceramics, moly and other ingredients to increased ring life.
some rings/coating wont work with Niskl or chrome cylinders.
Chrome was used in the 1970's to line cylinders.
Chrome on chrome is a no no, chrome is not porous and wont hold oil.
Center bleed pipe's.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2110313
Tune it in, do some porting, put a kit & pipe on it, look in the WIKI, read lot's of old post and links to see what worked for others.
Spark plug chop reading.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2959417,2962746,page=1
A colder plug will show color faster then a hotter plug and you chop it so it has pinch more red than tan in the color and it will be close to 2 jet sizes rich. http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
Now go one plug hotter and your plug will read/be leaner, and safe, if the plug is not to hot for the compression and or peak RPM power.
I like running a pinch cool and rich on my plug chops, so if my engine get's hot on a long hill etc I'm tuned so it wont smear & seize.
Setting up timing on E-50 & ZA-50's.
You need to find your TDC get a buzet gauge or use a piston stop.
Install piston stop turn fly wheel left mark it turn it right mark it TDC will be dead center of the L&R marks.
Now punch two marks on the flywheel at 15mm=15deg and 19mm=19deg clockwise from the flywheel TDC mark if it's a E50, counterclockwise on a ZA-50.
Time it at 18deg's to start and use a timing light!
To get the hottest spark gap the points at .016" to .017"
Use a B7HS in winter and a B8HS on hot days over 80f, gap the plug at .018" to.022"
Spark plug chop reading.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2959417,2962746,page=1
Best spark plugs with points, NGK BU8H #6431.
And this one is special for low power CDI's, NGK BUZ8H #7447. No more dead plug at hi rpm's.
But you need to use the NGK resistor Boot PN#LB10EH 8351 with the BU8H & BUZ8H plugs.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2863601
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2874767
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2881821
Timing before jetting.
Timing will effect jetting symptoms.
Oxygen makes things burn faster.
Less oxygen makes things burn slower.
You get the best power at 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups.
Pump gas combined with 9:1 to 11:1 compression needs 20º to 16º BTDC for a proper power stroke burn with a mix of 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups spinning under 10.5K RPM's.
Over 10.5K you need to retard timing cuzs things burn hell faster in two strokes.
But you need less timing as the pipe starts supercharging/hitting in the powerband to.
Hell at 14K you might need just 12º BTDC with your setup.
This is why CDI's retard timing at higher RPM's
So if your timing is to late to give a proper burn in the power stroke.
It will give you the symptoms of being rich in the idle & throttle mid rang.
So you set the needle leaner, this makes the gas burn faster giving it more burn power in the power stroke.
But it makes to much heat in the cylinder.
And it will probably gave it a good blip on the stand to.
If you have to much timing you will find yourself jetting rich to slow the burn down.
It all needs to work together for things to work proper.
This why i post to set your timing before jetting.
Timing with points, for the 64 cc polini kits, I fond the sweet spot heat range for timing Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC,
And K-star's and other kits any thing 19deg's= 1.44mm or 19mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
Timing CDI i fond the sweet spot heat range for timing these trets CDI's timing for the 64 cc polini kits
Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC for
And any thing under 20deg's= 1.60mm or 20mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
For most kited motors ruining under 11.2:1 compression & 11,500rpm's.
Timing for lowend will kill at hi rpm with heat every time.
Crankshaft timing conversion chart,
Degs to piston travel for puch E-50 & ZA-50
14 degs BTDC=0.789 mm of piston down BTDC.
15 degs BTDC=0.905 mm of piston down BTDC.
16 degs BTDC=1.028 mm of piston down BTDC.
17 degs BTDC=1.159 mm of piston down BTDC.
18 degs BTDC=1.298 mm of piston down BTDC.
19 degs BTDC=1.444 mm of piston down BTDC.
20 degs BTDC=1.598 mm of piston down BTDC.
21 degs BTDC=1.758 mm of piston down BTDC.
PHBG carbs
19mm Phbg most piston port setups tune in with a #40 slide with a AU262 or AU260 atomizer, most use the W9 or W7 some need a W3 and or #50 slide,
Most 17.5mm PHBG tune in with a AU260 or AU258 atomizer, and #30 or #40 slide, W9 some use W7-W3.
Plot/idle jet start with the adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
pilot jets range 38 to 48, If rich at idle with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 3/4 of a turn or less, install a leaner pilot jet, If a 38 pilot is rich install a leaner/smaller number atomizer or a higher number slide and install a 40 to 45 plot/idle jet with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns, The rang of plot/idle jet adjustment screw is 2-3/4 to 3/4 turn's out.
And lower the clip 1 or 2 notches.
Install a higher number plot/idle jet if lean at 2-1/2 or more turns out on the adjustment screw, if plot/idle jet is over 50 install a richer/bigger number atomizer or a lower number slide and install a 40 to 45 plot/idle jet with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
NOTE= Slide and Atomizer will dictate/control/change the range of the plot/idle jet.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Carburetor
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Needle
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Upjet
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Vacuum_leak
Bing info
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2891329,2893812
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2116363
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2117054,2120556#msg-2120556
SHA info
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2891329,2895993#msg-2895993
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,1826473,1826473#msg-1826473
Mikuni info
http://www.germanscooterforum.de/Lambretta_LI_GP_SX_TV_f2/Einstellungstipps_Mikuni_TM_24_28_t130952.html
Bearings
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2106919,2117413
Polini 64cc
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2111342,page=1
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2032707,page=1
Reeds.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2745966
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2921651
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2931408
Squash band's
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/7/207556/207556/
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2872505
http://www.mopedriders.org/article_cat.php?fldAuto=2
V1 stock clutch mods.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2982365
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,3007427,3007427,page=1#msg-3007427
Piston rings.
Old SAE paper
http://www.vintagesleds.com/library/manuals/misc/jennings/l-ring_effect.pdf
I like moly-faced ductile iron and steel rings, moly works very good because it is porous, holds oil so it's more scuff resistant.
Piston rings alone can account for up to 40 percent of an engine's friction.
Thinner rings exert less tension against the cylinders = more HP.
Some have a special coating on the sides to keep them from sticking as they bounce up and down in the piston lands.
Good pistons today are made with more silica "hypereutectic" alloy pistons have less thermal expansion close to 15 percent less than standard F-132 alloy pistons.
SO hypereutectic pistons can be installed with a tighter fit by .0005" to .0015" depending on the application.
Hypereutectic moly coated pistons with gs on the side can handle even less clearance.
High temperature fatigue strength of hypereutectic alloys is better than either cast or forged alloys.
By drilling tiny gas ports in the ring lands, less side clearance is needed and ring sealing is improved. There is also less ring flutter at high rpm.
Ring gaps top or single ring gap .008" to .012" and make the lower ring's gap bigger by .002" to .004" so pressure doesn't buildup between the rings.
This will help the top ring to hold its seal and fluter less at high rpm.
You will have better hi RPM compression, piston cooling and less ring blow-by.
Nikasil which is a very hard surface finish. Pistons normally run with chrome plated rings (also a hard surface) and because of this you need to blast WOT to run the two parts "hard" to bed in to each other. Normal running in will not allow the parts to bed in to each other and will cause piston ring blowby. This will allow excess pressure into the cylinder wall gap causing oil to be pushed down an out.
If a Nikasil engine seizes, usually the piston melts onto the niksil surface and the bore can be reclaimed by removing the deposited piston metal off the bore.
Lot's of new ring coating's are available Japan likes gas nitrided, Europeans like a mix of ring facings: moly, chrome and nitride.
New diesels run composite coatings that combine ceramics, moly and other ingredients to increased ring life.
some rings/coating wont work with Niskl or chrome cylinders.
Chrome was used in the 1970's to line cylinders.
Chrome on chrome is a no no, chrome is not porous and wont hold oil.
Center bleed pipe's.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2110313
Tune it in, do some porting, put a kit & pipe on it, look in the WIKI, read lot's of old post and links to see what worked for others.
Spark plug chop reading.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2959417,2962746,page=1
A colder plug will show color faster then a hotter plug and you chop it so it has pinch more red than tan in the color and it will be close to 2 jet sizes rich. http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
Now go one plug hotter and your plug will read/be leaner, and safe, if the plug is not to hot for the compression and or peak RPM power.
I like running a pinch cool and rich on my plug chops, so if my engine get's hot on a long hill etc I'm tuned so it wont smear & seize.
Setting up timing on E-50 & ZA-50's.
You need to find your TDC get a buzet gauge or use a piston stop.
Install piston stop turn fly wheel left mark it turn it right mark it TDC will be dead center of the L&R marks.
Now punch two marks on the flywheel at 15mm=15deg and 19mm=19deg clockwise from the flywheel TDC mark if it's a E50, counterclockwise on a ZA-50.
Time it at 18deg's to start and use a timing light!
To get the hottest spark gap the points at .016" to .017"
Use a B7HS in winter and a B8HS on hot days over 80f, gap the plug at .018" to.022"
Spark plug chop reading.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2959417,2962746,page=1
Best spark plugs with points, NGK BU8H #6431.
And this one is special for low power CDI's, NGK BUZ8H #7447. No more dead plug at hi rpm's.
But you need to use the NGK resistor Boot PN#LB10EH 8351 with the BU8H & BUZ8H plugs.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2863601
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2874767
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2881821
Timing before jetting.
Timing will effect jetting symptoms.
Oxygen makes things burn faster.
Less oxygen makes things burn slower.
You get the best power at 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups.
Pump gas combined with 9:1 to 11:1 compression needs 20º to 16º BTDC for a proper power stroke burn with a mix of 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups spinning under 10.5K RPM's.
Over 10.5K you need to retard timing cuzs things burn hell faster in two strokes.
But you need less timing as the pipe starts supercharging/hitting in the powerband to.
Hell at 14K you might need just 12º BTDC with your setup.
This is why CDI's retard timing at higher RPM's
So if your timing is to late to give a proper burn in the power stroke.
It will give you the symptoms of being rich in the idle & throttle mid rang.
So you set the needle leaner, this makes the gas burn faster giving it more burn power in the power stroke.
But it makes to much heat in the cylinder.
And it will probably gave it a good blip on the stand to.
If you have to much timing you will find yourself jetting rich to slow the burn down.
It all needs to work together for things to work proper.
This why i post to set your timing before jetting.
Timing with points, for the 64 cc polini kits, I fond the sweet spot heat range for timing Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC,
And K-star's and other kits any thing 19deg's= 1.44mm or 19mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
Timing CDI i fond the sweet spot heat range for timing these trets CDI's timing for the 64 cc polini kits
Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC for
And any thing under 20deg's= 1.60mm or 20mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
For most kited motors ruining under 11.2:1 compression & 11,500rpm's.
Timing for lowend will kill at hi rpm with heat every time.
Crankshaft timing conversion chart,
Degs to piston travel for puch E-50 & ZA-50
14 degs BTDC=0.789 mm of piston down BTDC.
15 degs BTDC=0.905 mm of piston down BTDC.
16 degs BTDC=1.028 mm of piston down BTDC.
17 degs BTDC=1.159 mm of piston down BTDC.
18 degs BTDC=1.298 mm of piston down BTDC.
19 degs BTDC=1.444 mm of piston down BTDC.
20 degs BTDC=1.598 mm of piston down BTDC.
21 degs BTDC=1.758 mm of piston down BTDC.
PHBG carbs
19mm Phbg most piston port setups tune in with a #40 slide with a AU262 or AU260 atomizer, most use the W9 or W7 some need a W3 and or #50 slide,
Most 17.5mm PHBG tune in with a AU260 or AU258 atomizer, and #30 or #40 slide, W9 some use W7-W3.
Plot/idle jet start with the adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
pilot jets range 38 to 48, If rich at idle with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 3/4 of a turn or less, install a leaner pilot jet, If a 38 pilot is rich install a leaner/smaller number atomizer or a higher number slide and install a 40 to 45 plot/idle jet with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns, The rang of plot/idle jet adjustment screw is 2-3/4 to 3/4 turn's out.
And lower the clip 1 or 2 notches.
Install a higher number plot/idle jet if lean at 2-1/2 or more turns out on the adjustment screw, if plot/idle jet is over 50 install a richer/bigger number atomizer or a lower number slide and install a 40 to 45 plot/idle jet with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
NOTE= Slide and Atomizer will dictate/control/change the range of the plot/idle jet.
