MopedWiki - Recent changes [en]

Honda PA Carburetor / Fuel

2012-05-16T21:37:19Z

Main Jet Sizes -

←Older revision		Revision as of 21:37, 16 May 2012
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	Also, this jet seems to be used in some pocket bike carbs. This set:		Also, this jet seems to be used in some pocket bike carbs. This set:

-	http://shop.hkmotos.com/product_info.php/products_id/131?osCsid=19adf54b06ce68b9a92f6e2b8edb90cc < Dead Link >	+	http://shop.hkmotos.com/product_info.php/cPath/47_45_22/products_id/133/osCsid/19adf54b06ce68b9a92f6e2b8edb90cc

	works for hobbit carbs, but not the dellorto carb they are sold as fitting. I do not know what the sizes translate too, but I guess they would be cheap enough to use as blanks for drilling to needed sizes. If the sizes are equal to the honda sizes, then according to the tuner spreadsheet this is a pretty good neighborhood to jet a kitted hobbit in.		works for hobbit carbs, but not the dellorto carb they are sold as fitting. I do not know what the sizes translate too, but I guess they would be cheap enough to use as blanks for drilling to needed sizes. If the sizes are equal to the honda sizes, then according to the tuner spreadsheet this is a pretty good neighborhood to jet a kitted hobbit in.

Minarelli V2

2012-05-16T16:35:48Z

Maintenance and repair -

←Older revision		Revision as of 16:35, 16 May 2012
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	== What makes a V2 a V2? ==		== What makes a V2 a V2? ==

-	They are the same in many ways to their non-variated brethren. The cylinder, head and piston are identical to that on the V1. The flywheel and stator assembly is the same. Mine is a CEV 6932 flywheel, but others might have been used.<br>	+	They are the same in many ways to their non-variated brethren.
-	The exhaust system is the same, but if you are thinking of adding a performance pipe to yours consider that the rear pulley may cause clearance issues not found with the V1.<br><br>	+	*The cylinder, head and piston are identical to that on the V1.
-	The clutch is way different, closer to a Batavus design[http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/batavusclutch.html]. It is a circular spring filled with ball weights, located on the front pulley, just behind the starter clutch. Since it is so similar to the Batavus clutch, I speculate that it should be possible to do the same clutch performance mod described in the [[Batavus performance]] article(removing weights to increase the RPMs at which the clutch engages). I don't know if it's been tried yet though.	+	*The flywheel and stator assembly is the same. Mine is a CEV 6932 flywheel, but others might have been used.<br>
-	<br><br>	+	*The exhaust system is the same, but if you are thinking of adding a performance pipe, keep the rear pulley clearance in mind<br>
-	The crankshaft is different and is rumored to be exceedingly difficult to find.	+	But they are different in some crucial areas.
-	<br><br>	+	*The clutch is way different, closer to a Batavus design[http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/batavusclutch.html].
-	The V2 has slightly different engine mounts than the V1, making a simple bolt-on conversion impossible. Some clever welding would alleviate the problem however.	+	*The crankshaft is different and is rumored to be exceedingly difficult to find.
		+	*The V2 has slightly different engine mounts than the V1, making a simple bolt-on conversion impossible. Some clever welding would alleviate the problem however.

	The transmission is a dual variated [[Variator\|CVT]], similar in design to many mopeds and scooters. It uses springs and weights to change the shape of the pulleys in tandem, which changes the gear ratio while keeping belt tension[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlCb-TWLr-0].		The transmission is a dual variated [[Variator\|CVT]], similar in design to many mopeds and scooters. It uses springs and weights to change the shape of the pulleys in tandem, which changes the gear ratio while keeping belt tension[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlCb-TWLr-0].
Line 32:		Line 33:
	*Drive sprocket bearing: 15x35x11		*Drive sprocket bearing: 15x35x11
	*Seal: 15x24x5		*Seal: 15x24x5
		+
		+	The centrifugal clutch is a circular spring filled with ball weights, located on the front pulley, just behind the starter clutch. Since it is so similar to the Batavus clutch, I speculate that it should be possible to do the same mod described in the [[Batavus performance]] article(removing weights to increase the RPMs at which the clutch engages). I don't know if it's been tried yet though.

	The starter clutch uses a small cup filled with bearings that occasionally needs greased. To access it, remove the two hex screws that hold on the front pulley cover. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE, because those little ball bearings like to fall out and disappear. Once it's off, just remove the bearing cup inside the cover, clean and grease everything.		The starter clutch uses a small cup filled with bearings that occasionally needs greased. To access it, remove the two hex screws that hold on the front pulley cover. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE, because those little ball bearings like to fall out and disappear. Once it's off, just remove the bearing cup inside the cover, clean and grease everything.
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	The belt used is size A-26 on stock setups. If the rear pulley has been changed, it will be a different size.		The belt used is size A-26 on stock setups. If the rear pulley has been changed, it will be a different size.
		+
	== Availability ==		== Availability ==

Woolly Bullies

2012-05-15T18:14:02Z

←Older revision		Revision as of 18:14, 15 May 2012
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	{{Moped Gang		{{Moped Gang
-	\|name=Boogey Woogies	+	\|name=Woolly Bullies
	\|members=14		\|members=14
	\|honorary=4		\|honorary=4
Line 12:		Line 12:


-	Spawned by the leviathan, The Woolly Bullies mash streets of L.A. without rival. Chris Bully is famous for Splitting lanes viciously with no brakes, a Ghetto Blaster, and sparking boots. Max Bully was once a pirate, but now prefers the titles of The Moped Daytrader, or Treasurer ad Infinitum. Regardless, he will smoke you downhill when there isn't a bee in his eye. Jose is the one that looks like a tweaker, doesn't give a fuck, and will stab you, but probably won't make the ride. Leslie Bully will make sure you are fabulous. She is the ambassador to the LA Tigers (RIP.) Drew Bully will have problems with his moped, as it releases it's pre-rally anxiety in the form of flat tires. Mike Bully will be super nice to you and tell you to sleep on his floor; and then drink you under the table. Daniel is in the process of fixing every moped you have ever laid eyes on. Danny and Crystal represent Bullies in their Imperial ambitions, and have begun to spread Bullitude into the Portland area. Hillary, sister to Crystal, is the littlest bully... The Littlest Bully That Could. Robert Bully lives on the east coast now, when hes not busy blasting Khz (RIP) hes out giving the bullies a bad rep. Jason and Billy are our newest Bullies, and between them, they have helped the club span coast to Coast (Venice and D.C. respectively.) Bullies hold open arms to the West Coast, and degenerates gather from far and wide to participate in shenanigans.	+	Spawned by the leviathan, The Woolly Bullies mash streets of L.A. without rival. Chris Bully is famous for Splitting lanes viciously with no brakes, a Ghetto Blaster, and sparking boots. Max Bully was once a pirate, but now prefers the titles of The Moped Daytrader, or Treasurer ad Infinitum. Regardless, he will smoke you downhill when there isn't a bee in his eye. Jose is the one that looks like a tweaker, doesn't give a fuck, and will stab you, but probably won't make the ride. Leslie Bully will make sure you are fabulous. She is the ambassador to the LA Tigers (RIP.) Drew Bully will have problems with his moped, as it releases it's pre-rally anxiety in the form of flat tires. Mike Bully will be super nice to you and tell you to sleep on his floor; and then drink you under the table. Daniel (RIP) is in the process of fixing every moped you have ever laid eyes on. Danny and Crystal represent Bullies in their Imperial ambitions, and have begun to spread Bullitude into the Portland area. Hillary, sister to Crystal, is the littlest bully... The Littlest Bully That Could. Robert Bully lives on the east coast now, when hes not busy blasting Khz (RIP) hes out giving the bullies a bad rep. Jason and Billy are our newest Bullies, and between them, they have helped the club span coast to Coast (Venice and D.C. respectively.) Bullies hold open arms to the West Coast, and degenerates gather from far and wide to participate in shenanigans.
	NOW WITH MORE Robert's rattail and less Robert!		NOW WITH MORE Robert's rattail and less Robert!

Line 26:		Line 26:
	Charlie Mittens,		Charlie Mittens,
	Max 'Mojo' Shapiro,		Max 'Mojo' Shapiro,
-	Daniel Nguyen,	+	Daniel Nguyen (RIP),
	Crystal Andrew,		Crystal Andrew,
	Hilary Andrew,		Hilary Andrew,

2 stroking your Girlfriend

2012-05-15T18:10:50Z

←Older revision		Revision as of 18:10, 15 May 2012
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	Coined by the Bemor Halfwit and made famous by the HalfWits		Coined by the Bemor Halfwit and made famous by the HalfWits
	[[Category: Traditions and Sayings]]		[[Category: Traditions and Sayings]]
		+
		+
		+	See also: 2 stroking yourself (when you add terms to the wiki that you supposedly 'made up' but did not.)

Final Drive Disassembly

2012-05-15T17:58:21Z

Replacement Parts -

←Older revision		Revision as of 17:58, 15 May 2012
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	== Replacement Parts ==		== Replacement Parts ==
-	( TO BE ADDED )	+
		+	These are the Honda OEM parts for the seals and bearings. Yours may or may not need replaced. Check your local honda dealer for bearings, or order them yourself from a trustworthy shop. Oil seal dimensions are in metric (e.g. "24X34X5.5" means 24mm inner diameter, 34mm outer diameter, 5.5mm thick)
		+
		+	For the pulley side,
		+	BEARING (6201) 96100-62010-00
		+	OIL SEAL (12X22X5) 91201-965-000
		+
		+	For the brake side,
		+	BEARING (6203) 96100-62033-00
		+	OIL SEAL (24X34X5.5) 91203-148-003
		+
		+	There are two of these needle bearings on the gearshafts:
		+	BEARING (1010) 91021-148-004

Jawa Tuning

2012-05-15T14:06:30Z

←Older revision		Revision as of 14:06, 15 May 2012
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	== Overboring ==		== Overboring ==
	There are several piston sizes for the 207 and 210 engines. As the stock bore was worn out it would be rehoned to accept the 1st overbore piston, then the 2nd, etc. Each rebore increases by 0.25 mm. In the United States pistons were available up to the 3rd overbore, but pistons as large as the 8th overbore (an increase of 2 mm bore and 7 cc displacement) have been found in eastern Europe. This is relatively uncharted territory - early reports indicate higher low end torque due to increased compression but no substantial effect on top speed. Aggressive porting may be required to reap the full benefit of increased displacement.		There are several piston sizes for the 207 and 210 engines. As the stock bore was worn out it would be rehoned to accept the 1st overbore piston, then the 2nd, etc. Each rebore increases by 0.25 mm. In the United States pistons were available up to the 3rd overbore, but pistons as large as the 8th overbore (an increase of 2 mm bore and 7 cc displacement) have been found in eastern Europe. This is relatively uncharted territory - early reports indicate higher low end torque due to increased compression but no substantial effect on top speed. Aggressive porting may be required to reap the full benefit of increased displacement.
		+
		+	== Cylinders ==
		+	Jawa cylinders consist of an aluminium jug with with an iron sleeve pressed into it. This sleeve can be pressed out to give better access to the ports for modification. The 210 cylinder is superior to the 207 cylinder due to its two additional angled transfer ports. It also has a larger flange around the exhaust port making it easier to modify for a larger header. This cylinder can be bolted to the 207 engine with no modifications. It is possible to press the 210 sleeve into the 207 jug if you wish to maintain a more stock look, but it will be more difficult to adapt to a large header than the 210 cylinder.

	== Gearing ==		== Gearing ==

Talk:Honda PA50 II

2012-05-15T04:56:37Z

delete/!?!

←Older revision		Revision as of 04:56, 15 May 2012
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-	This is a quick overview on how to take a Honda PA50 or PA50 II final drive apart.	+	delete, i messed up - koz
-	Skill level required 3/10	+
-	Tools required - Nothing special... 14mm wrench (oil drain plug) 10 or 12mm for arm, screwdriver #3 I think, Mallet, vice, torch for bearing removal.	+
-		+
-	You have to remove the rear wheel from the hobbit subframe.	+
-	Quick overview - 4 bolts on final drive ( 2 have nuts, 2 have them built into the rear drive ), remove the tensioner for the chain, remove the belt --- it should be simple!	+
-		+
-	Now you have a big wheel with the final drive. Hammer on that 7/8 12pt socket, impact it off with hand on the wheel / rim. slide the break hub off, now your getting there.	+
-		+
-		+
-	== Dis-assembly ==	+
-		+
-	Drain Oil, remove 14mm bolt in the middle of the housing	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1.jpg‎]]	+
-		+
-	Unscrew the 5 screws, I used my craftsman screwdriver, with basically a JIS plus head on it. Not really a Phillips. I had to use the blk wrench to get torque on it!	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1_1.jpg]]	+
-		+
-	Scribed a line for the position of the arm and remove the arm, I guess you want it in 'Neutral' , flipped toward the ground when mounted to the moped	+
-		+
-	So you have the bolts removed and the arm, you also need to remove the rear pulley. I would use a strap wrench on the thing. I didn't snap a picture.	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_2.jpg‎]]	+
-		+
-	Now you need to separate the halves. To crack it apart, you gotta hit it. Maybe rubber mallet. I only got some wood material, worked for me. Clamped it in a vice on one of the bolt tabs. Back and fourth a few times and had no problems.	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_3_apart.jpg‎]]	+
-		+
-	Weather I forgot a step or not, this is what you get. A couple washers in there, and some shafts/gears that sit in their own spaces!	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_case.jpg‎]]	+
-		+
-	One side of the case, lots of oil	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Honda_final_drive_Bearing_removal.jpg]]	+
-		+
-	So at this point you may as well remove the bearings and replace them. Its cool with me! Heat up the inside, or outside of the case, smack them to the inside, done.	+
-		+
-	[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_Washers.jpg‎]]	+
-		+
-	Washer locations!	+
-		+
-		+
-	== Washer Specification ==	+
-		+
-	'''2 x Small washer''' @ 94/95mm thick, OD 18.6, ID 10.34	+
-		+
-	'''1 x Large Washer''' @ 98mm thick, OD 27.92, ID 17.16	+
-		+
-		+
-	== Replacement Parts ==	+
-	( TO BE ADDED )	+

Final Drive Disassembly

2012-05-15T04:56:11Z

Hobbit final drive removal / dis-assembly

New page

This is a quick overview on how to take a Honda PA50 or PA50 II final drive apart.
Skill level required 3/10
Tools required - Nothing special... 14mm wrench (oil drain plug) 10 or 12mm for arm, screwdriver #3 I think, Mallet, vice, torch for bearing removal.

You have to remove the rear wheel from the hobbit subframe.
Quick overview - 4 bolts on final drive ( 2 have nuts, 2 have them built into the rear drive ), remove the tensioner for the chain, remove the belt --- it should be simple!

Now you have a big wheel with the final drive. Hammer on that 7/8 12pt socket, impact it off with hand on the wheel / rim. slide the break hub off, now your getting there.

== Dis-assembly ==

Drain Oil, remove 14mm bolt in the middle of the housing

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1.jpg‎]]

Unscrew the 5 screws, I used my craftsman screwdriver, with basically a JIS plus head on it. Not really a Phillips. I had to use the blk wrench to get torque on it!

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1_1.jpg]]

Scribed a line for the position of the arm and remove the arm, I guess you want it in 'Neutral' , flipped toward the ground when mounted to the moped

So you have the bolts removed and the arm, you also need to remove the rear pulley. I would use a strap wrench on the thing. I didn't snap a picture.

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_2.jpg‎]]

Now you need to separate the halves. To crack it apart, you gotta hit it. Maybe rubber mallet. I only got some wood material, worked for me. Clamped it in a vice on one of the bolt tabs. Back and fourth a few times and had no problems.

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_3_apart.jpg‎]]

Weather I forgot a step or not, this is what you get. A couple washers in there, and some shafts/gears that sit in their own spaces!

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_case.jpg‎]]

One side of the case, lots of oil

[[Image:Honda_final_drive_Bearing_removal.jpg]]

So at this point you may as well remove the bearings and replace them. Its cool with me! Heat up the inside, or outside of the case, smack them to the inside, done.

[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_Washers.jpg‎]]

Washer locations!

== Washer Specification ==

'''2 x Small washer''' @ 94/95mm thick, OD 18.6, ID 10.34

'''1 x Large Washer''' @ 98mm thick, OD 27.92, ID 17.16

== Replacement Parts ==
( TO BE ADDED )

Honda PA50 II

2012-05-15T04:55:28Z

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:51:29Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive Washers.jpg"

Talk:Honda PA50 II

2012-05-15T04:50:31Z

Final Drive Disassembly

New page

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:33:48Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive Washers.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:31:13Z

uploaded "Image:Honda final drive Bearing removal.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:29:29Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive case.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:24:11Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive 3 apart.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:22:59Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive 2.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:19:36Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive 1 1.jpg"

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-15T04:17:54Z

uploaded "Image:Hobbit final drive 1.jpg": final drive

Minarelli V2

2012-05-14T04:16:54Z

What makes a V2 a V2? -

←Older revision		Revision as of 04:16, 14 May 2012
Line 6:		Line 6:

	They are the same in many ways to their non-variated brethren. The cylinder, head and piston are identical to that on the V1. The flywheel and stator assembly is the same. Mine is a CEV 6932 flywheel, but others might have been used.<br>		They are the same in many ways to their non-variated brethren. The cylinder, head and piston are identical to that on the V1. The flywheel and stator assembly is the same. Mine is a CEV 6932 flywheel, but others might have been used.<br>
-	The exhaust system is the same, but the rear pulley may cause clearance issues not found with the V1.<br><br>	+	The exhaust system is the same, but if you are thinking of adding a performance pipe to yours consider that the rear pulley may cause clearance issues not found with the V1.<br><br>
	The clutch is way different, closer to a Batavus design[http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/batavusclutch.html]. It is a circular spring filled with ball weights, located on the front pulley, just behind the starter clutch. Since it is so similar to the Batavus clutch, I speculate that it should be possible to do the same clutch performance mod described in the [[Batavus performance]] article(removing weights to increase the RPMs at which the clutch engages). I don't know if it's been tried yet though.		The clutch is way different, closer to a Batavus design[http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/batavusclutch.html]. It is a circular spring filled with ball weights, located on the front pulley, just behind the starter clutch. Since it is so similar to the Batavus clutch, I speculate that it should be possible to do the same clutch performance mod described in the [[Batavus performance]] article(removing weights to increase the RPMs at which the clutch engages). I don't know if it's been tried yet though.
	<br><br>		<br><br>

Moped Gangs and Groups

2012-05-14T02:03:16Z

Pennsylvania -

←Older revision		Revision as of 02:03, 14 May 2012
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	* [[Human Beans]] (Lancaster, Pennsylvania)<small>[http://thehumanbeans.blogspot.com/ Human Beans Blog]</small>		* [[Human Beans]] (Lancaster, Pennsylvania)<small>[http://thehumanbeans.blogspot.com/ Human Beans Blog]</small>
	* [[switcHANDsignal]] (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [MA] '''dead'''		* [[switcHANDsignal]] (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [MA] '''dead'''
		+	* [[The Works Fiasco]] (State College, Pennsylvania) <small>[http://theworksfiasco.wordpress.com/ The Works Fiasco blog]</small>
	----		----

The Works Fiasco

2012-05-14T01:56:50Z

The Works Fiasco moped gang State College, PA

New page

Taking over as State College's premier moped gang.

[http://www.theworksfiasco.wordpress.com The Blog]

K-Star 70cc Kit Compendium

2012-05-13T14:25:20Z

←Older revision		Revision as of 14:25, 13 May 2012
Line 60:		Line 60:
	[[Ignition timing\|Time]] it right and put a good spark plug in (BR8HIX, BU8H). Roffman informed me that 17 degrees is the timing to shoot for, which may require a dremeled stator plate. Get anything else that needs to happen done and check for [[Vacuum leak \| air leaks!]] The intake and exhaust gaskets that come with the kit are terrible (the exhaust gasket is the wrong size, for example). Cut or buy new ones if you're having problems.		[[Ignition timing\|Time]] it right and put a good spark plug in (BR8HIX, BU8H). Roffman informed me that 17 degrees is the timing to shoot for, which may require a dremeled stator plate. Get anything else that needs to happen done and check for [[Vacuum leak \| air leaks!]] The intake and exhaust gaskets that come with the kit are terrible (the exhaust gasket is the wrong size, for example). Cut or buy new ones if you're having problems.

-	At that point, it’s just a matter of tuning and keeping your kit cool during break in. Break in tactics vary so much and are so fiercely debated that I dare not expound on them.	+	At that point, it’s just a matter of tuning and keeping your kit cool during break in. Break in tactics vary so much and are so fiercely debated that I dare not expound on them. Once you're finished breaking it in, you should hit 45 mph easily.

	Check out the category link at the bottom of the page for more information. And don't forget luck. Good luck.		Check out the category link at the bottom of the page for more information. And don't forget luck. Good luck.

Shop links

2012-05-12T15:05:47Z

Domestic Parts Vendors -

←Older revision		Revision as of 15:05, 12 May 2012
Line 143:		Line 143:
	:Motor West is an excellent source for older Puch and Sears/Allstate parts.		:Motor West is an excellent source for older Puch and Sears/Allstate parts.
	:Location: Milwaukee, WI		:Location: Milwaukee, WI
-
-	[http://stores.ebay.com/orphanage-mopeds/ Orphanage Moped Shop eBay store]
-	:The ever-expanding online shop with shipping out of Brooklyn. Fastest shipping to the Northeast and East coast.
-	:Location: Brooklyn, NY

	[http://www.perkllc.com/ Perk L.L.C.]		[http://www.perkllc.com/ Perk L.L.C.]

List of wiring diagrams

2012-05-12T04:45:51Z

add Beta diagram

←Older revision		Revision as of 04:45, 12 May 2012
Line 30:		Line 30:
	Image:Batavus_VA_HS50_wiring_1.png\|VA/HS50 (workshop manual)		Image:Batavus_VA_HS50_wiring_1.png\|VA/HS50 (workshop manual)
	Image:Batavus_VA_HS50_wiring_2.png\|VA/HS50 #2 (workshop manual)		Image:Batavus_VA_HS50_wiring_2.png\|VA/HS50 #2 (workshop manual)
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	==Beta==
		+	<gallery>
		+	Image:Beta-SL5-wiring-diagram.png\|Beta SL 5, from owner's manual
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Special:Log/upload

2012-05-12T04:44:41Z

uploaded "Image:Beta-SL5-wiring-diagram.png": Wiring diagram for Beta SL 5, taken from owner's manual

Vespa Grande

2012-05-11T15:12:15Z

Manual and Repair -

←Older revision		Revision as of 15:12, 11 May 2012
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	*[http://www.mopedriders.org/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=50 Manual from MRA]		*[http://www.mopedriders.org/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=50 Manual from MRA]
	*[http://www.vespaonline.dk/download/haynes.zip Haynes Repair Manual]		*[http://www.vespaonline.dk/download/haynes.zip Haynes Repair Manual]
		+	*[http://www.zippymopedparts.com/partsviews.html Parts Diagrams]

	=== Parts Resources ===		=== Parts Resources ===

Vespa Ciao

2012-05-11T15:11:40Z

Manual and Repair -

←Older revision		Revision as of 15:11, 11 May 2012
Line 51:		Line 51:
	*[http://www.mopedriders.org/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=50 Manual from MRA]		*[http://www.mopedriders.org/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=50 Manual from MRA]
	*[http://www.vespaonline.dk/download/haynes.zip Haynes Repair Manual]		*[http://www.vespaonline.dk/download/haynes.zip Haynes Repair Manual]
		+	*[http://www.zippymopedparts.com/partsviews.html Parts Diagrams]

	=== Parts Resources ===		=== Parts Resources ===

K-Star 70cc Kit Compendium

2012-05-11T12:35:57Z

←Older revision		Revision as of 12:35, 11 May 2012
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	'''Get a pipe and carb.'''		'''Get a pipe and carb.'''

-	Maybe [[Clutch tuning \| work with clutches.]] Pipes are variable – if you want top end buy a top end pipe. [[Puch Exhausts#Biturbo \| Biturbo perhaps?]] For low-mid end, I like the [[Puch Exhausts#Tecno Estoril \| Tecno Estoril.]] A 19mm+ Dellorto PHBG is recommended for carburetion. Hi flow air filters rock stock sucks. Angled intakes are way better than the 90 degree units. They have superior flow characteristics, look badass sticking off the front of your ped, and allow easy access for jetting or carburetor work.	+	Maybe [[Clutch tuning \| work with clutches.]] Pipes are variable – if you want top end buy a top end pipe. [[Puch Exhausts#Biturbo \| Biturbo perhaps?]] For low-mid end, I like the [[Puch Exhausts#Tecno Estoril \| Tecno Estoril.]] Note that those are budget pipes. If you want a Simonomi on this kit... Have fun. A 19mm+ Dellorto PHBG is recommended for carburetion. Hi flow air filters rock stock sucks. Angled intakes are way better than the 90 degree units. They have superior flow characteristics, look badass sticking off the front of your ped, and allow easy access for jetting or carburetor work.

	If you're feeling like an artistic welder, you can [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2110313,2110487 make your pipe a side bleed] for a bit of extra kick.		If you're feeling like an artistic welder, you can [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2110313,2110487 make your pipe a side bleed] for a bit of extra kick.
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	You can [[Gearing\|change the gear ratio]] of your moped at the cost of low or high end. When you use a kit, you can usually raise it from stock. Linked is a [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/file.php/6/58517/1239412368_ped_speed_chart.xls spreadsheet] that gives ratios between gearing, rpm, and speed. Be warned - you may need to get a longer chain.		You can [[Gearing\|change the gear ratio]] of your moped at the cost of low or high end. When you use a kit, you can usually raise it from stock. Linked is a [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/file.php/6/58517/1239412368_ped_speed_chart.xls spreadsheet] that gives ratios between gearing, rpm, and speed. Be warned - you may need to get a longer chain.
		+
		+	'''Deal with [[E50_wiring_block \| wiring.]]'''
		+
		+	At full RPM a K-Star kit can dump out 25 volts of shit into your lights, causing them to burn out every few seconds. Get a rectifier, regulator, new coils, HPI/CDI, or whatever else you want to get it working properly. Be aware of the electric power generated by a kit, and act accordingly. Do your own research on this part. Your wiring varies too much for me to play omnipotent and try to make a guide. However, I will recommend grounding wires inside the stator instead of having a rat's nest on your frame.

	'''Wrap it up.'''		'''Wrap it up.'''

Performance FAQ

2012-05-11T03:04:00Z

Bought speed -

The Holy Rollers

2012-05-10T23:58:14Z

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-	The Holy Rollers started up in Oct. of 2008. We were given our name by [[It Ran Earlier\|I.R.E.]] We ride about 60 miles every other weekend with anywhere from 5 tru 25 riders.

-	[http://www.ofallonholyrollers.org/ Holy Rollers Website]
-
-	[[Category: Unofficial gangs and groups]]

Holy rollers

2012-05-10T23:56:46Z

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	Our charter members AaronB and Lars were invited to rally in downtown St. Louis put on by the [[It Ran Earlier\|I.R.E.]] (It Ran Earlier) in 2008. Being new to the moped world, the I.R.E. named our gang Holy Rollers aka HR, thus the name stuck. We started with 2 riders and have grown to about 20 riders and still adding more all the time. We love and think the I.R.E., the Ruffians, Mid-Mo Peds, Cold Trailers, K.C. Peeps are awesome !!!		Our charter members AaronB and Lars were invited to rally in downtown St. Louis put on by the [[It Ran Earlier\|I.R.E.]] (It Ran Earlier) in 2008. Being new to the moped world, the I.R.E. named our gang Holy Rollers aka HR, thus the name stuck. We started with 2 riders and have grown to about 20 riders and still adding more all the time. We love and think the I.R.E., the Ruffians, Mid-Mo Peds, Cold Trailers, K.C. Peeps are awesome !!!

-	We meet at the O'Fallon First Assembly of God Church every other Sunday to ride into the community to meet people, to help people any way we can, and make new friends!	+	We meet at FREEDOM Church in O'Fallon MO every other Sunday to ride into the community to meet people, to help people any way we can, and make new friends!

-	Our group rides every other Sunday. We ride 50-60 miles all around the O'Fallon, Lake St.Louis,St. Charles areas. We meet @ 1:30pm, start the ride sometime around 2-2:30pm. Rides usually run to around 7pm with a potluck dinner to follow the ride. Meet at the back of church at O'Fallon First Assembly of God, 8759 Veterans Memorial Pkwy, O'Fallon, MO 63366. (Located next door to the O'Fallon KMart) Come join us for a ride and make new friends!	+	Our group rides every other Sunday. We ride 50-60 miles all around the O'Fallon, Lake St.Louis, Wentzville, St. Charles areas. We meet @ 1:30pm, start the ride sometime around 2-2:30pm. Rides usually run to around 7pm with a potluck dinner to follow the ride. Meet at the back of church at FREEDOM CHURCH, 8759 Veterans Memorial Pkwy, O'Fallon, MO 63366. (Located next door to the O'Fallon KMart) Come join us for a ride and make new friends!

	To become an official member of the group you must ride with us for one season, demonstrate riding safety, and build friendships and show care for other group members and a willingness to do good to others out in the community while on group rides. Also have to be voted in by the leaders..		To become an official member of the group you must ride with us for one season, demonstrate riding safety, and build friendships and show care for other group members and a willingness to do good to others out in the community while on group rides. Also have to be voted in by the leaders..

Mopeds in movies

2012-05-10T14:22:21Z

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	; The Devil and Daniel Johnston (2005) [http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0436231/]: Daniel leaves his sister's house, where he had been staying, on a moped and joins a carnival. A Puch Magnum (?) can be seen propped against a carnival food stand in one scene.		; The Devil and Daniel Johnston (2005) [http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0436231/]: Daniel leaves his sister's house, where he had been staying, on a moped and joins a carnival. A Puch Magnum (?) can be seen propped against a carnival food stand in one scene.
		+
		+	; C.R.A.Z.Y. (2005) [http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0401085/]: The main caracter is hit by a car while driving his moped.

	; Batman Begins (2006) [http://imdb.com/title/tt0372784/]: Two or three mopeds of unknown make can be seen driving through an ally in the rain at the beginning of the scene where Batman meets the Scarecrow for the first time.		; Batman Begins (2006) [http://imdb.com/title/tt0372784/]: Two or three mopeds of unknown make can be seen driving through an ally in the rain at the beginning of the scene where Batman meets the Scarecrow for the first time.

Seat

2012-05-10T00:44:57Z

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	The '''seat''' is the (usually) cushy part of the [[moped]] in which you plant your butt for riding.		The '''seat''' is the (usually) cushy part of the [[moped]] in which you plant your butt for riding.

-	{{stub}}	+	Some people make seats out of skateboards and other silly items. What will you make your seat out of?

	[[Category:Moped parts]]		[[Category:Moped parts]]

Indian

2012-05-09T22:27:37Z

Petcock option for Indian Mopeds -

←Older revision		Revision as of 22:27, 9 May 2012
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	I invented this and it does "not" run smoothly...'''GAS LEAKS'''		I invented this and it does "not" run smoothly...'''GAS LEAKS'''
		+
		+	The Honda Gas Fuel Tank Petcock for CBT125 M16*1.5MM works perfectectly on the indian and it only cost me 12.00 dollars on ebay.

	== Performance ==		== Performance ==

The Frostbacks

2012-05-09T14:20:42Z

New page

Any info?

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	**[[Re-boring a PA50's stock Keihin]]		**[[Re-boring a PA50's stock Keihin]]
	*[[Honda PA Drivetrain]]		*[[Honda PA Drivetrain]]
		+	**[[Final Drive Disassembly]]
	*[[Honda PA Electrical]]		*[[Honda PA Electrical]]
	*[[Honda PA Engine]]		*[[Honda PA Engine]]

←Older revision		Revision as of 03:04, 11 May 2012
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	*Clean and repack wheel bearings -- [[Repacking Cup and Cone Bearings\|repacking your wheel bearings]] helps reduce rolling resistance, which can help you go faster.		*Clean and repack wheel bearings -- [[Repacking Cup and Cone Bearings\|repacking your wheel bearings]] helps reduce rolling resistance, which can help you go faster.
	*Mill your head -- [[Head milling\|milling the cylinder head]] will increase compression and improve your low-end power		*Mill your head -- [[Head milling\|milling the cylinder head]] will increase compression and improve your low-end power
-	*Remove any restrictions -- this will depend on your moped, so do some research. A common restriction on Puch mopeds is the addition of two small pipes that block part of the exhaust. ([http://www.mopedarmy.com/resources/articles/maxi-derestriction/ Derestrict a Puch pipe]).	+	*Remove any restrictions -- this will depend on your moped, so do some research. A common restriction on Puch mopeds is the addition of two small pipes that block part of the exhaust. ([[Derestricting a Puch Maxi exhaust]])
	*Increase air flow -- many people use pantyhose as a homemade high-flow air filter, or they remove/[[Dellorto SHA air filter mod\|modify]] restrictive stock metal mesh filters. It is important to [[upjet\|increase fuel flow]] when you increase air flow, or else you risk [[seizure\|seizing]] your engine.		*Increase air flow -- many people use pantyhose as a homemade high-flow air filter, or they remove/[[Dellorto SHA air filter mod\|modify]] restrictive stock metal mesh filters. It is important to [[upjet\|increase fuel flow]] when you increase air flow, or else you risk [[seizure\|seizing]] your engine.
	*Port your cylinder -- this is not recommended for beginners. See [[Smitty's Cylinder Porting Guide]] for more information.		*Port your cylinder -- this is not recommended for beginners. See [[Smitty's Cylinder Porting Guide]] for more information.
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	===Bought speed===		===Bought speed===
-	Bought speed modifications = performance parts that you buy and install on your moped. Some brands of mopeds have lots of performance parts that you can buy (Puch, Tomos, Motobecane) some mopeds have a decent selection of performance parts (Peugeot, Honda, Minarelli engines) and some mopeds have zero support in the performance parts department (Batavus, Jawa). Brands with fewer parts can still be made fast, but it takes more time, knowledge, and creativity to ''make'' things work instead of bolting them on.	+	Bought speed modifications = performance parts that you buy and install on your moped. Some brands of mopeds have lots of performance parts that you can buy (Puch, Tomos, Motobecane, Honda, Minarelli, Peugeot) some mopeds have a decent selection of performance parts (Garelli, Morini) and some mopeds have zero support in the performance parts department (Batavus, Jawa). Brands with fewer parts can still be made fast, but it takes more time, knowledge, and creativity to ''make'' things work instead of bolting them on.

-	Please read the [[:Category: Performance Tuning\|Performance tuning]] article.	+	Please read the [[:Category: Performance Tuning\|Performance tuning]] article.

	==How fast will I go if I get a _____?==		==How fast will I go if I get a _____?==
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	[[Category: Performance Tuning]]		[[Category: Performance Tuning]]
		+	[[Category: For Newbies]]